Despite not yet being the tourist season, Santorini is a pretty special place. The stark white buildings set against the red and tan earth are truly a sight to behold. When most people think of Greece, they imagine white buildings with blue shutters set atop cliffs and mountains. At least, that is what I had always pictured Greece to be. I found out in Athens that this was not the case. I was, however, thrilled to hear that the island of Santorini, and particularly Oia within it, were much closer to this view.

Amy and I awoke early Tuesday morning and made our way down to the main port of Athens. We hopped on a huge ferry that would take us first to the islands of Paros and Naxos, then on to our final destination of Santorini some seven hours later. Amy and I passed the time by playing rummy and people-watching; groups, large and small, from all over the world, seemed to be headed to the islands of Greece. We stepped off the ferry in Santorini and immediately boarded a bus which wound its way up the sheer side of a mountain until we finally reached the top, and with it, Santorini. We made our way into Fira, the largest city on Santorini, only to learn that we had missed our bus to Kamari by a mere ten minutes. We had to wait over an hour for the next, so we walked a short way into Fira and had a beer and a gyro. The rest of the day consisted of a bit of sightseeing, checking into our villa a few miles outside of Fira, and a great dinner at Café Mistral in Kamari, where our villa was located.

Wednesday was an adventurous day. Amy and I rented an ATV for 24 hours and drove all over Santorini. The town we are staying in, Kamari, is about 10 minutes outside of Fira so we drove our ATV to Fira for some sightseeing and a quick lunch. We started out towards the Red Beach, all the way on the other side of the island, but on the way we passed signs for Santo Winery and decided to stop in. It is these types of improvisations that so often turn out to be the highlights of a trip. Amy and I sampled four wines, recommended by the bartender, and loved each one. We sampled a couple of whites, their specialty, followed by a red and Vinsanto, an extremely sweet dessert wine. Amy snapped a couple of quick pictures of cruise ships anchored off the coast of Santorini and we were on our way. We cruised on down to the Red Beach in Akrotiri, the most southerly point on the island. The Red Beach was one of the neatest things I have seen the entire trip; over thousands of years, the ocean has worn away the side of a cliff, exposing the red rock face. The sand on the beach is, in turn, red. It’s a pretty cool thing to see, and one you won’t see many other places in the world.

We headed to Oia around 5:30 PM. I was incredibly anxious to see the white and blue houses set into the mountainside like I had seen on postcards. Oia did not disappoint. It has been called the most beautiful city in Greece by many people and you will get no argument from me. If you have seen a postcard from Santorini, it has most likely come from Oia. It was just as I had imagined; amazingly white houses stacked one on top of the other on the mountainside. I feel I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the blue roofs; judging by the white houses and blue roofs and shutters, I enjoyed imagining that everyone in Oia is a diehard University of Kentucky fan!!!

Making our way back to Kamari was the biggest adventure of the day. It was dark outside, and we had only our dim ATV lights to guide us back along the 40 minute ride on the curvy, windswept mountainside. We made a short stop in Fira for one of Greece’s famous iced coffees and an apple and cinnamon crepe. Thoroughly satisfied, we finally ended up in our villa in Kamari. It was a long and incredibly successful day, the best type of day to have in a foreign country. Tomorrow promises to be another such day, filled with ATV rides, visits to volcanoes, and a dip in a hot spring or two.

Amy and Me in Santorini.

Amy enjoying the red at Santo Winery in Santorini, Greece.

At the Red Beach.

O

Oia.  One of the most amazing places I have ever seen.

There is nothing quite like embarking on a full day of travel and having your long-lost girlfriend there to meet you on the other side of the world.  My girlfriend, Amy, has been studying in Athens, Greece, for almost three months and I decided several months ago that a vacation for me would be in short order!  Why should she get to have all the fun?!  So I landed in Athens early Saturday morning and we haven't looked back since.  

There is so much to see in Athens.  Saturday was filled with exploration of the local meat, vegetable, and seafood market.  That was quite a scene; the meat market was absolutely packed.  Everyone was jostling to buy their whole lamb for the midnight roast for Easter; Amy said she had never witnessed the meat market so packed before.  It was at this time that I had my first gyro, a great combination of mouth-watering chicken, beef, or pork stuffed in a pita with tzatziki, french fries, tomatoes, onion, paprika, and salt.  If you ever make it to Greece, it is a rite of passage to enjoy a gyro!

After a quick nap for me, Amy and I walked to a great dinner at Sissifos, an incredible Greek restaurant which offered a rooftop view of the lit Acropolis.  I ordered lamb with oil and oregano, and let me say with no exaggeration that it was one of the best meals I have ever had.  Dinner in Greece is an all-night event; by the time we left Sissifos, full and satisfied, we had spent well over two hours enjoying the view and the wonderful food.  Amy, her roommate Sarah, and I concluded the night by climbing nearly to the top of a huge hill overlooking all of Athens so we could watch the midnight fireworks show to celebrate Easter.

Sunday was filled with more sightseeing.  Amy and I embarked on an early morning walk past Syntagma Square to the National Gardens, a huge forested area of flowers, creeks, trails, and such situated right next to the Greek Parliament.  A strenuous hike to the top of Lycabettus Hill followed.  At the top stands a small white church, centuries old, with a neat cafe adjoining.  The view of Athens from the top of the hill is breathtaking.  Athens stretches out in every direction as far as the eye can see.  Dinner was amazing once again!  Amy and I walked to Thissio, a local restaurant district, which offered another view of the lit Acropolis and superb food once again.  It was here I enjoyed my first Mythos, the local Greek beer.  

All three of the most prominent historical sights were visited Monday.  The Agora, an ancient village which housed the common people of Greece, was an amazing sight.  It has been beautifully preserved and truly offered a view into what Greece was like many centuries ago.  From there we ventured all the way up the Acropolis to see the Parthenon.  The sheer scale of it is mindblowing; to think that the Parthenon was built with just manpower is simply amazing.  It has been extremely well-preserved and restoration work continues on it year-round.  A quick walk down the other side of the Acropolis led us to the Temple of Zeus, a massive temple that the rest of ancient Athens was built around.  A mid-afternoon trip to Bretton's qualifies as one of the highlights of my trip thus far.  Bretton's is a 102-year-old tavern where they distill their own ouzo, the famous Greek liquor.  My trip would not have been complete without a taste of ouzo, so I saddled up to the bar and ordered a glass of the 84 proof liquor.  The taste of ouzo is incredibly difficult to describe; it is brewed with licorice and anise and the taste overwhelms you at first but then goes down incredibly smooth.  Bretton's is a must-see for any visitor to Athens.

Amy and I are catching an early morning ferry to Santorini tomorrow.  Santorini is one of the most well-known Greek islands and is considered by some to be among the most beautiful places on the planet.  Pictures will be sure to follow!

Amy and I enjoyed a meal at Sissifos.  The Acropolis can be seen in the upper right hand corner.

Taking a break in front of the Parthenon.

My first taste of Ouzo.

Greek man passes the time at Bretton's with a glass of Ouzo.

After saying goodbye to the mountains this morning, I experienced a totally new side of Canada at Calgary. The growing city is in the midst of prairie country, so the region has long depended on ranching as one of its main economic staples.

To celebrate this, the city holds an annual Calgary Stampede rodeo every July. The famous event gives tours of the grounds and has a gift shop that stays open year round for those interested in everything from souvenirs to high end cowboy gear.

I had more retail therapy at downtown Calgary’s extensive Stephen Avenue mall before enjoying my final dinner at Mavericks. The Western-themed restaurant is on Calgary Stampede’s park grounds.

Now that I've just finished several helpings of the restaurant’s wonderful buffet, I’m sure I will sleep like a baby before departing back to the U.S. tomorrow morning.

Calgary Stampede gift shop

Calgary

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Stephen Avenue mall

On my fifth day of touring with Collette Vacations, I feel as though I saw the entire Canadian Rocky Mountain range from above. The vistas from the top of the Sulfur Mountain didn’t just make me feel as though heaven was close, but that I was in heaven itself.

The Sulfur Mountain Gondola is an eight-minute ride that takes sightseers 7,400 feet above sea level. As I went up and up and up in the gondola, the surrounding valley began to unfold below me, making the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel seem like a toy castle. At the top, I felt like I was on top of the world and could see forever.

After my trip to the top of the Rockies, I explored the charming town of Banff. This tourist town contains plenty of shopping opportunities for the most enthusiastic shoppers.

Inside the town, I learned about a gemstone even rarer than diamonds at the Ammolite in the Rockies. In the museum/shop, I heard a presentation about the ammolite that is found only in southern Alberta.

Originally fossilized shells of creatures that died at the bottom of the sea to be forgotten, the rainbow colored gemstones are now sold in Banff as colorful jewelry.

Banff also feeds hungry tourists up and down its main avenue with numerous restaurants and shops. May I recommend trying Mountain Chocolates’ treats if you are in the area. The shop offers handmade chocolates, caramel corn, caramel apples and other sugary concoctions that satisfy the sweet tooth.

Spectacular view on top of Sulfur Mountain

View of trail at top of Sulfur Mountain



One of the fossils used to make Ammolite jewelry

Handmade candy at Mountain Chocolates

This morning I awoke inside a 1920s hotel designed after a Swiss chalet and tonight I am about to go to sleep in a 1911 hotel built like a Scottish castle. The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise’s Swiss design originated from the influence of Swiss mountaineers the hotel hired to ensure their mountain climbing guests would return safely from their Canadian Rockies adventures.

But the best part of this hotel is not the elegance inside, but the fantastic views outside. This morning, I took a stroll beside Lake Louise, now completely frozen over with three feet of snow on top. Even in April, I could still walk on the lake without fear of the ice breaking.

My eyes mostly stayed upward on the towering mountains surrounding the lake, including a huge glacier, which feeds the lake with fresh water every year.

This evening, I arrived at the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel for more jaw dropping views inside and out. I felt like a princess arriving at this picturesque stone hotel with its grand staircases, stain glass figures, stone details and medieval-themed lounges.

Outside its windows is yet another glorious view of the Rockies, which was the reason the hotel was built there. With the snowy mountain peaks still visible in the evening light, I unwound from my long day of touring with a dip in the hotel’s heated outdoor pool. Fresh cool mountain air mixes well with steamy hot pool temperatures.

Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise

View out the window of Banff Springs Hotel

Medieval room within the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel

Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel

Today, I stood on an icefield composed of snow and layers of ice that have been in the Canadian Rockies since the last Ice Age. Weird, unearthly blue glaciers seemed to be slowly pushing their way through the enormous, sheer mountains all around me on the Columbia Icefield near Jasper.

The color white was all around me in the sky, the ground and the mammoth mountains reaching to the heavens. Between the two tallest peaks was the granddaddy of the nearby glaciers called the Athabasca Glacier. The largest glacier in the Columbia Icefield, the glacier looked like water had been released from a giant dam, came rushing upon the icefield’s expansive valley, and then froze in its tracks.

I stood for a long time staring at all sides of me and trying to memorize the unbelievably majestic scene. I half expected angels to descend from the clouds and start singing the Hallelujah Chorus.

For the first time in my life, I found myself thankful for snow in April. Though there is still an exceptional amount of snow during the peak summer months, there is not the covering of white as far as the eye can see.

All along the Icefields Parkway from Jasper to Lake Louise, this scenery was one silent vista blanked in beautiful snow after another. Bighorn sheep and elk sightings were the only proof that life other than dark green evergreens could exists in the white world.

A far away view of the Columbia Icefield and glaciers

Proof that I stood on an icefield

Bighorn sheep sighting

An older model of the coaches used to take visitors to the icefield

When I heard I was riding an overnight train from Vancouver to Jasper on my tour of the Canadian Rockies, I wasn’t sure what to expect. I had ridden an overnight in economy class before when I was in college where you sleep on one of six tiny pull out beds with random other travelers in the same room. It was just as awkward as it sounds.

However, this trip wasn’t about getting someplace cheaply, but instead about the journey itself. First, everyone on the tour got their own private sleeping room on the train.

After spending the day learning about the beauty of Vancouver, I went to sleep that night in my comfortable private room. I awoke to find myself in a Narnia-like dreamland.

From my train window, I could watch the snowy mountainous world of the Rockies pass silently by. This remote land is more untamed than any mountainous region I have yet seen. Only a few lonely houses were ever visible out my window.

Evergreens covered the mountain vistas to create dark contrasts against the perfectly white snow. Even in April, it snowed for most of the day as we rode along. I watched the scenery change from the dome car to catch glimpses of turquoise lakes, waterfalls and one adorable moose.

This evening, I disembarked the train with the rest of my group with Collette Vacations to stay at the Jasper Park Lodge. After eating a delicious dinner at the lodge, I braved my fear of the cold by climbing into their heated outdoor pool.

Though snow lay all around me, I stayed warm inside the steamy pool. I just made sure to not let my head drift too high out of the 87 degree water.

My cozy bedroom inside the train where the beds pull down

One of my snowy views from the train

The beautiful city of Vancouver

Sedona itself is famous for its incredible red rock monoliths, buttes, luxurious resorts and New Age enthusiasts. However, it also has much more to offer visiting groups, including four-wheel drive (Jeep) trips into the awe-inspiring high country, and exploring the town aboard the Sedona Trolley.

The latter includes a stop at the inspiring Chapel of the Holy Cross, which is inaccessible by full-size motorcoach. A wealth of shopping opportunities await in the downtown area, as well as in the upscale Tlaquepaque arts and crafts village. Even a trip up the less-than-exotically-named Airport Road affords spectacular panoramic views of the area from scenic overlooks.

Finally, south of Sedona are even more great places to see and things to do. The quaint old mining center of Jerome almost became a “ghost” town after the copper mines closed in 1953, but its scenic location attracted a whole generation of artists and craftsmen who revitalized the community. 

Tuzigoot National Monument offers more fascinating prehistoric pueblo ruins. Train buffs are sure to enjoy a trip on the Verde Canyon Railroad, which operates exceptional half-day, scenic excursions through the beautiful Arizona wilderness. And to conclude the day, the Blazin’ M Ranch offers a tasty chuckwagon dinner, followed by an enjoyable evening of cowboy music and comedy presented by the house band.

How long does one need to stay in the area to see it all or at least most of it all?  I’d suggest four or five nights. Your group is sure to love it, and you for offering it to them!

Cowboy entertainment at the Blazin' M Ranch

Sedona Trolley Tour

Tlaquepaque Arts and Crafts Village in Sedona

Grand Canyon at Mather Point

Although not convenient for “hub & spoke” touring, I’d be remiss if I did not also mention that group accommodations during the springtime are also easy to come by in Grand Canyon Village, within walking distance of the canyon’s magnificent South Rim. Both the Yavapai and Maswik Lodges offer clean, comfortable and reasonably priced, motel-style units.

Even though the Grand Canyon National Park is easily reached on a day trip from either Sedona or Flagstaff, staying inside the park allows more time for guests to explore on their own, witness the sunrise or sunset over the canyon, ride the complimentary shuttle trip to Hermit’s Rest or simply contemplate the splendors of nature.

Also in the neighborhood are several other attractions that are surely worth including in your itinerary. Located east of the canyon and north of Flagstaff, the historic Cameron Trading Post is a landmark in the Navajo Nation. 

Next, don’t miss the splendid and easily accessible Ancentral Puebloan ruins of Wupatki National Monument. South of Flagstaff, one can follow the beautiful scenic drive through Oak Creek Canyon on State Route 89A en route to Sedona. 

Alternately, Montezuma Castle National Monument can be reached via I-17. Then it’s an easy drive north to Sedona via State Route 179.

Grand Canyon from the South Rim

Another view of the canyon

Wupatki National Monument

Recently on this site I have been touting some of the benefits of planning a trip to Phoenix and the “Valley of the Sun,” including last month’s coverage of the Cactus League spring training baseball season. However, I surely wouldn’t want to suggest visiting Arizona in the springtime without also including some time in the north/central part of the state. 

Conveniently located just a couple of hours north of the Phoenix area via I-17, this fascinating region encompasses the Verde Valley, Mogollon Rim, the colorful Sedona Red Rocks Country, and of course, the incomparable Grand Canyon. 

One of the advantages of using either Sedona or Flagstaff as a “base” for exploring everything the area has to offer is the convenience of being able to unpack and “settle in” for an extended stay. Although Sedona is more expensive, such is to be expected due to its widespread recognition as a very scenic, upscale resort community.  

I am partial to the Kokopelli Suites, a smaller property, conveniently located with very attractive accommodations, great service and attractive rates, which makes it an ideal location for a superior “hub & spoke” vacation. 

Flagstaff, the commercial center of Northern Arizona and home of Northern Arizona University, boasts a wide variety of lodging choices in every price range. My favorites include the full-service Radisson Woodlands Hotel for upscale groups, the Drury Inn & Suites in the moderate range, and the Aspen Inn Suites for more economy-minded travelers.

Bob Hoelscher, CTC, CTP, MCC, CTIE, is a longtime travel industry executive who has sold his tour company, bought a motorhome and is traveling the highways and byways of America.  He is a former chairman of NTA, and was a founding member of Travel Alliance Partners (TAP).

Well-known in the industry as both a baseball and symphony aficionado, Bob is also one of the country’s biggest fans of our national parks, both large and small.  He has already visited more than 325 NPS sites and has several dozen yet to see.  He is currently traveling the country to visit as many of those parks as possible.  His blog, “Travels with Bob,” appears periodically on The Group Travel Leader’s blogsite, “Are We There Yet”. 

Bob is available for contractual work in the industry and may be reached at bobho52@aol.com or by calling (435) 590-1553.

Cholla cacti and Sedona red rocks

Sedona Red Rocks Jeep Tour

Verde Canyon Railroad Excursion