Regular readers of my blogs are likely already aware that Mount Rainier National Park is one of my favorites among America’s great parks. However, being able to spend the entire summer in the Seattle/Tacoma area this year has provided me with the opportunity to visit a number of the area’s secondary attractions that are still of substantial interest. 

One of these is the Crystal Mountain Resort, among the Pacific Northwest’s premier ski resorts, which boasts the state-of-the-art Mount Rainier Gondola. Climbing almost 2,500 vertical feet from the base station at 4,400 feet up Crystal Mountain, the gondola passes over meadows of wildflowers and evergreen forests en route to breathtaking views of neighboring 14,411-foot Mount Rainier, as well as the Cascade Range as far away as 12,276-foot Mount Adams, over 50 miles distant.  

At the top, in addition to overlooks with panoramic views and the opportunity to choose from a number of scenic hikes, groups are sure to enjoy a lunch (or weekend dinner) at the Summit House, Washington’s highest elevation restaurant, at 6,872 feet.  Here both a large outdoor patio and indoor dining room combine fine Northwest cuisine with the backdrop of towering Mount Rainier to create an especially memorable meal. 

For a full-day trip from Seattle during the summer months, I’d recommend a late morning gondola ascent followed by lunch, then an afternoon excursion into the national park proper for an awe-inspiring scenic drive to the visitor center and related facilities at Sunrise (6,400 feet), about as close that a visitor can get to one of the nation’s most impressive peaks without an extended hike.

Magnificent Mount Rainier from atop Crystal Mountain

Dining with an incredible view 

Checking out the Crystal Mountain layout

Last month I addressed this subject, before almost immediately became an unwitting participant in exactly what I had advised against. During a cruise to the Norwegian Fjords in early August, I decided to join the ship’s $94.95 “Hiking on the Hardanger Plain” shore excursion from the small town of Eidfjord. 

This supposed “hike” was little more than a forced march up an extremely muddy, steep hillside with much standing water and slippery terrain. The destination was a small plain without any significant importance, then a much easier descent, mostly over developed walkways and roads. No information on the flora and fauna was provided by the young, athletic-type “guide,” apparently a mountain climber, but obviously not a professional tour director. 

Although the scenic vistas along the way were okay, they were nothing special, so the hike’s real purpose (other than providing strenuous exercise) was open to question. We were given a quick ten minutes at the conclusion of the hike to view and photograph a truly breathtaking canyon with towering waterfalls.  

As an experienced hiker, I know that even this could have been a reasonably enjoyable experience had it simply been more relaxed. Nevertheless, we were led up the very primitive trail at a breakneck pace that was probably normal for the guide, but hardly appropriate for typical cruise guests sloshing through water and mud. We had no time to relax and “smell the roses,” since the only goal appeared to be getting to the top of the ridge as quickly as possible. 

The description of the trip in the shore excursion flier should have mentioned the very steep climb, as well as the substantial elevation gain along the way. One lady was injured in a fall while trying to keep up, others slipped and fell without injury, and instructions to “bring a dry pair of socks” were laughable after our shoes had been completely filled with muddy water.

On Labor Day, I made another visit to Mount Rainier, taking several relatively short hikes, none of which would be particularly taxing for the average tour participant. One this occasion, however, I did pause to closely inspect Mother Nature’s handiwork. The accompanying photographs provide some idea of the beauty I encountered along the way, sights, which I would have passed by and missed completely had I followed the example of my Norwegian hiking adventure.

Morning dew on plants beside the trail

Gray's Nutcracker

Fascinating wildflowers

Near the Mount Rainier National Park, the Northwest Trek Wildlife Park is one of the most unusual city parks in the U.S. Yes, this Eatonville park is basically a zoo, but it is a zoo unlike any you are likely to find elsewhere.

The mission of this 725-acre wildlife park is to present only those animals that are native to the Pacific Northwest (more than 200 at present, but no elephants or giraffes) in settings which accurately recreate their natural habitats. The park also allows visitors to view them in close proximity. This is accomplished in two different areas. 

First, naturalist-guided, open-air tram tours wind through a 435-acre free-roaming area that is home to herds of moose, elk, bison, Rocky Mountain sheep and other species.  Second, an easy walking tour allows guests to stroll pathways through the forest to explore natural exhibits of black and grizzly bears, wolves, cougars, raptors and others.

Additional attractions include “Trailside Encounters” with small animals; a discovery center featuring snakes, honeybees and “hands-on” opportunities; as well as miles of both paved and primitive nature trails. Special events are scheduled throughout the summer, fall and holiday season. For example, I attended the highly entertaining, annual “Slug Fest” in June, which was billed as “sliminess, silliness and serious fun with human slug races, crafts and activities for kids, a slug hunt and more.”  

Other events include a Trek Trails Weekend, Keeper and Creature Feature Weeks, Elk Bugling and Photo Tours, Senior Month and Winter Wonderland. For a completely different addition to a tour of Western Washington, the Northwest Trek Wildlife Park earns a strong recommendation.

Our tram tour passes the elk herd

Grey wolves, as seen on the walking tour

Black bear in a natural habitat

Forbidden fruit has always had a particular appeal to me. Tell me not to do something, and I have an irresistible urge to do just that thing. Ask me to close my eyes for a moment, and you’re practically begging me to peek. Prohibit me from going somewhere, and that place takes first priority on my travel wish list.

For more than 50 years, Cuba has been the ultimate forbidden fruit for American travelers. A wide-sweeping trade embargo against the country’s communist government has effectively prohibited American travelers from visiting the island nation, which lies just 90 miles south of Florida. Although Cuba was once a prime vacation destination of rich and powerful Yankees, it became a symbol of the Cold War, a gated paradise off-limits to American tourists.

It was this strict prohibition that made Cuba such an attractive destination for me. I’ve longed to visit the island for all of my adult life (although I passed up an opportunity to go illegally from Mexico once as a college student). And when we began to hear whispers last year that travel restrictions to Cuba might be loosening, I immediately put Cuba at the top of my tourism bucket list.

The rumors turned out to be true; the Obama administration instated a provision in federal Cuban policy that allowed American tour operators to take passengers on “People to People” tours of Cuba that create cultural exchanges between the citizens of the two nations. American tour operators began lining up for licenses last summer and took their first groups of American tourists to Cuba last fall.
In July, I was fortunate enough to secure a spot on one of those tours as a guest of Premier World Discovery. The weeklong adventure in Cuba took us all around Havana, as well as to farmland to the west and beautiful keys off the island’s northeast coast. I was thrilled to visit this long-forbidden destination and to do it legally. I found Cuba fascinating, beautiful, warm, engaging and challenging. It was everything a good trip should be.

I’m not the only person who has longed to visit Cuba. The pent-up demand for this destination exploded in record bookings for the tour operators who began offering trips last year. Today, many tour operators who are licensed to take these trips report waiting lists of groups that extend into 2014.

We found out firsthand just how excited Americans are about Cuba when we surveyed bank travel program directors about their destinations for 2012 and 2013. In its first year of availability, Cuba surged to number four in our survey, surpassing perennially popular international destinations like England, France, Spain and Australia.

There’s a lot to learn on a tour of Cuba, just like a visit to New York, Albuquerque, South Africa or anywhere else in the world. And although global politics sometimes divide us, travel has a powerful way of creating common ground among all sorts of people.

Here’s to more happy exchanges and less forbidden fruit.

On this day, I left the group and hiked for two hours from Holenstein down to Grindelwald

The last full day of our trip, the Swiss Alps were illuminated by a bright, clear sun.  I was thrilled for my Swiss hosts, for my comrades who had never seen this country so clearly, and for myself.  Because this was the day we were headed up to First, a tram station high above Grindelwald that offers incredible views of the alpine majesty that defines this country.

The night before, we had all felt the blush of sunlight at our evening meal high above Interlaken at the Harder Kulm restaurant.  As a result, our meal was festive and alive with anticipation of the sun to follow the next day.  We ended that evening in the bar at our hotel, the Hotel du Nord, in Interlaken.  Our group was at ease with each other by then, and we had a ball in the bar just relaxing with Swiss locals and a dog or two that found its way in.

The following day, we took the train to Grindelwald, then the tram to First.  We began the morning with a new zipline ride, the First Flyer.  Then we enjoyed lunch at reserved tables on the patio at First.   Hikers and families were everywhere enjoying the first sunny day of September.  It was intoxicatingly beautiful outside.

Afterwards, all of us took scooters down from Bort to Grindelwald, dodging cars, hikers and bicyclists along the way.  Then many of my comrades rented bicycles for more touring of the countryside around Grindelwald.  I stuck to my plans to hike.  I left the group and walked a mile or so to the lift at Grund and took it most of the way up the mountain to Holenstein.  From there, I spent two hours walking and photographing the Alps, always in the shadow of the Eiger, which was serene and solemn.

This day in sun in Switzerland proved the perfect dichotomy for a group of travelers who ended up seeing two Switzerlands, one as enthralling as the other.

I was thrilled for our hosts in Interlaken when the sun came out and brilliantly lit this picturesque city

At Harder Kulm the evening before, traces of sunlight began to appear in the clouds--a sign of things to come

From the terrace in First, the grandeur of the Bernese Oberland Alps is almost more than one can absorb

This father and son enjoyed close communion in the beauty of the Swiss Alps at First

A couple prepares for a day in the mountains at the Wilderswil train station

Our group was treated to two very different Switzerland experiences in our five days on the ground.  The first few days we were there it was snowing in the Alps.  We were there in celebration of the Jungfrau Railways 100th anniversary and our first full day in Interlaken began with a trip up to Kleine Scheidegg, where groups catch the trams up to the Top of Europe. 

The Jungfraujoch is indeed Europe's highest altitude rail station.  This massive station can be seen on a clear day from thousands of feet below, its gleaming silver exterior sitting atop a craggy cliffline just above the Aletsch Glacier.  The railway that climbs into the Alps to serve the Jungfraujoch was envisioned by Adolfo Guyer-Zeller in 1893.  Within three years of expressing his vision, the work began, and 16 years after that, the railway was completed in 1912.  The Jungfraujoch station includes an ice bar, viewing decks, several restaurants and a gift shop.  A playful ice palace burrows its way through the base of the structure, featuring whimsical creatures and carvings.

Our second day in snow was at Schynige Platte, an alpine preserve that is well-known for its flower gardens and walking trails.  On a clear day, this place offers a wonderful view of the three signature peaks in the Bernese Oberland--the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau.  For us, it did not.  But we had a wonderful lunch here and enjoyed touring its old mountain hotel.  The restaurant was filled with diners and I spoke with the owners about a hike I hope to do some day from Schynige Platte to First.  It's about an eight-hour hike and is offered in the summer as a full-moon hike as well. 

Snowball fights broke out repeatedly within our group--most of them instigated by our intrepid tour director, Adrien Genier.

Our train engineer awaited his load of passengers from Wilderswil station up to Schynige Platte

This vista from the train up to Schynige Platte gives some idea of the weather we encountered on this day's excursion

There were no takers for any of these hikes on this day, but the day after was highlighted by bright blue skies

Even in snow, the alpine garden at Schynige Platte held forth dashes of color

Zurich's Dolder Grand Hotel, built in 1899,  is home to a remarkable collection of original artwork, both indoors in its public spaces and out on its grounds

Zurich, the financial center of Switzerland, has been a gateway to this spectacular country for decades.  But this is a proud city that would like to see more of its incoming guests spend some time enjoying its culture before heading out for the mountains in other regions of the country.  I spent a couple of days in Zurich in late August with Switzerland Tourism as a guest on an international study trip that included about 15 American and Brazilian tour operators.

We stayed at the impressive Dolder Grand Hotel which overlooks the city and is internationally known for its spa and world-class art.  Served by its own tram from Zurich, this old hotel opened originally in 1899 and features works of art by Andy Warhol, Salvador Dali and even Sylvester Stallone in its public spaces.  A manicured nine-hole golf course spreads beneath the hotel and while we were there it was quite busy. 

We toured Zurich for an evening and a morning, and spent a lot of time in its Old Town.  Cobblestone streets here date as far back as the 13th century and fortifications from the 17th century remain high above Lake Zurich.  This is a city of water fountains, all featuring drinkable water unless temporarily noted otherwise.  More than 1,200 in all are spread across this city of roughly half a million people, and almost all have a small section at ground level for four-legged guests as well.

Our guide described much of Zurich's architecture as Protestant--fairly plain on the outside but resplendent on the inside.  As proof, she took us to the city's police station, which at one time was an orphanage.  Between World Wars, Swiss artist and sculptor Eduardo Giocometti came and painted its interior walls in a beautiful floral pattern.  Zurich is an international center for art, and is home to more than 50 museums and more than 100 art galleries.

Zurich is a cosmopolitan city of 500,000 people and offers many culinary options in addition to its 100 art galleries and 50 museums

This Zurich bar is resplendent with the names of those who have hoisted themselves

into the rafters and drunk wine -- a feat none of us could accomplish

These gentlemen relaxed by the river on the morning of our tour of Old Town Zurich

More than 1,200 fountains grace Zurich, all of which offer drinkable water for passersby and many for their pets