Eat Your (Ox) Heart Out

by Brian Jewell 28. February 2011 17:15

We've enjoyed a number of over-the-top meals here in China, including hosted dinners last night in Xi'an and tonight in Shanghai. Chris Lee, owner of China Plus USA, is very well respected here in China, and so when he brings a FAM tour on a visit, his tourism friends pull out all the stops.

Last night's dinner included a number of colorful dumplings, many shaped to resemble frogs, ducks or other animals, as well as a variety of local delicacies. Among them were some foods that you won't find on western menus, such as ox hearts (I tried them -- not nearly as bad as you might think). But the meal also included many wonderful pork, chicken, beef and seafood dishes. All together, we counted some 37 dishes that were served family-style to our small group.

Tonight we're in Shanghai, China's business center, and staying in the brand new Sheraton hotel that is currently in its soft opening phase. The hotel management treated us to a wonderful dinner at their upscale Japanese restaurant on the 37th floor. The meal included beautiful sashimi --  raw tuna, salmon and shellfish -- as well as a number of traditional Japanese soups, salads and fried rice. The highlight, though, was the Wagyu beef, prepared in front of us on a tepenyaki grill. The cattle that Wagyu comes from are fed a premium diet, and caretakers massage them daily by hand to make their muscles extra soft and tender. The result was one of the best steak meals I've ever had, impossible tender and full of fresh flavor.

There are some perks that come along with working in the travel industry, and in China many of those are built on personal relationships. Here, as in so many other places, it's all about who you know.

 

A platter of ox heart and other delicacies... yum!

Frog-shaped dumplings in Xi'an.

Gathering around the tepenyaki table at the Sheraton in Shanghai. 

Fancy fingerwork makes dinner entertaining.

A splash of red wine turns beef preparation into fireworks.

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Wonders of China

Walking on the Great Wall

by Brian Jewell 25. February 2011 04:00

It's not every day that you get to take a walk along a 2,700-year old wonder of the world. So for me as a traveler, today's visit to the Great Wall of China was pretty special.

We've all seen pictures of the wall, and probably heard various tidbits about it, such as the fact that it is the only man-made object visible from space. On our drive to the mountains outside of Beijing, where sections of the 4,000-mile wall are most accessible to visitors, our local guide Eddy gave us more details about the creation of this landmark.

"The emperors built the wall to keep out the Mongols from the north," he said. "Over one million workers were involved. Many of them died while they were building it. Most of the workers were prisoners, so if they got sick or wounded, nobody cared. They just buried them inside the wall."

Today, the wall is still as spectacular as it must have been back then. It snakes along the tops of ridges like a spine on the mountain range. In the sections near Beijing, the wall is wide, tall and easily walkable -- even on a late winter day, the place is buzzing with tourists, most of them Chinese nationals visiting from other parts of this large country.

We had two hours to spend exploring the Great Wall.  I chose to take the challenging hike from our starting place to the Eighth Tower of the North, the wall's highest point near Beijing. The journey included a lot of steps and no small amount of heavy breathing, but the views from the top, and the accompanying sense of accomplishment, were more than worthwhile.

After all, this is one of the great accomplishments of ancient humanity. Eight thousand miles away from home, it only makes sense to me to make the most of the opportunity. So the Great Wall of China, and its Eighth Tower of the North, is officially checked off the bucket list.

 

A steep hike from the bottom

Brian stops for a photo on the wall... with hair wind-whipped into a frenzy.

A remnant of the 2008 Beijing Olympics, fixed just beside the Great Wall.

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Wonders of China

Forbidden City in the Mist

by Brian Jewell 23. February 2011 17:44

It's a foggy day in Beijing, dreary weather for touring. But it will take more than mist to dampen my spirits -- today, my first in China, we are visiting the Forbidden City, one of the most renown sites in the whole country.

This elaborate complex of palaces and accompanying buildings was constructed more than 600 years ago, and occupied by members of the Ming Dynasty -- China's last emperors -- until 1921. During that time, it was strictly off-limits to commoners. Only emperors, their entourages and other public officials were allowed inside this massive and ornate complex. Thus the royal palace came to be known as the "Forbidden City."

After the fall of the dynasty, the new Chinese government opened the complex as the Palace Museum, but it is still widely known as the Forbidden City. Throngs of visitors come to see the craftsmanship and artwork on the palace walls and roofs, to walk in the footsteps of former emperors, and to learn more about this fascinating era in Chinese history. For a 600-year old attraction, the Forbidden City is huge -- our group spent several hours walking through from the north end to the south side. Along the way, Chris Lee, owner of China Plus, and our local guide Eddy told us stories of the emperors who lived in the city, as well as their harems and armies. All told, there are 9,999 rooms in the city, they tell us.  This was by design, as ancient Chinese beliefs held that there are 10,000 rooms in heaven.

The history is fascinating, but for me, it was the art of the Forbidden City that was truly stunning. The painting, carving and architecture represent the best work of the Mind dynasty, and have been remarkably well preserved over 600 years. With eye-catching designs and brilliant colors, the wonders of this city shine bright on even the foggiest of days.

 

 One of the Emperor's many thrones.

The Royal Hall

Iconic brass orbs adorn the gates to the Forbidden City.

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Wonders of China

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