Whistler in photographs

by Brian Jewell 9. August 2010 23:52

Back at my Kentucky office, where the humid air seems to boil underneath the 95-degree southern sun, looking through photos is a great way to remember the wonderful, cool freshness of the British Columbia mountains. It's also a great reminder of the many meals, attractions and activities that haven't appeared yet in this blog.  Here are some of my favorite images from the four-day trip.

A wonderful citrus salad at The Brewhouse, which also serves incredible beef ribs.

 

A First Nations canoe at the Squamish Lil'wat Cultural Centre, which celebrates the history and art of the local native groups.

 

Traveling from Blackcomb to Whistler on the Peak 2 Peak gondola.

 

Friends huddle inside the ice room at Bearfoot Bistro, an over-the-top dinner spot in the Whistler village.

 

This grilled cheese and apple sandwhich is the most popular dish at Christine's, a full-service restaurant at the top of Blackcomb Mountain.

 

Hiking Whistler Mountain

by Brian Jewell 7. August 2010 23:10

Though it was 75 degrees in Whistler today, on top of the mountain I found myself surrounded by snow.

The town of Whistler sits in a valley between two mountains, Whistler and Blackcomb. Both are ideal ski destinations in the winter; in the summer, they afford great opporutnities for sightseeing, hiking and gorgeous views of the British Columbia wilderness.

This afternoon I rode a chairlift up to the summit of Blackcomb Mountain, and then took the Peak 2 Peak gondola over to Whistler Mountain. There are plenty of scenic views to be seen during either ride, and visitors often spot black bears and other wildlife during their ascents. Hiking on the backside of the mountain, however, I found pristine environments, crystal glacial lakes and snowpacks that towered above my head.

A number of ski runs and access roads on Whistler Mountain are converted to hiking paths in the summer. From the gondola station, I took a lift to the very top of the mountain, then went for an hour-long hike back down along a path known as Pika's Traverse, which wraps around the backside of the mountain not visibible from the village below. The trail is wide and relatively easy to walk, gently descending in elevation back to the main mountain station. On this isolated side of the mountain, the air is quiet and the views are expansive — all I could hear was the trickle of water running off of the melting snowcaps, accompanied by an occasional windy howl.

At the top of the mountain, sevral large glaciers are still covered with snow in August, and looking across the mountain range, I saw that some of the other peaks are completely snow-capped as well. As I walked along Pika's Traverse, I would pass by large pockets of snow in the mountainside, and occassionally walk through passages in large snowbanks that were carved by snow-clearing equipment during the winter.

So although it's the middle of summer, there is still lot of snow at the top of Whistler Mountain... and yet hiking through it in short sleeves and jeans, I didn't feel cold at all. It's an amazing phenomenon, and it made for some amazing views on the backside of the mountain.

A recipe for rub -- "Carne Diablo"

by Brian Jewell 6. August 2010 21:15

For outdoor enthusiasts, there's no shortage of things to do on the mountains in Whistler. But groups can also find ways to enjoy themselves at a more leisurely pace, such as a cooking experience with the staff of The Four Seasons resort.

One of the most popular chefs at the hotel is Edison Mays, a charismatic young man known around here as the Spicemaster. Edison is in charge of dry rubs at Sidecut, the resort's signature steakhouse, and has created a number of flavorful mixtures for beef, pork, lamb and fish. His favorite is called Edison's Medicine, but he also deals with novelty mixes including a blueberry rub and a chocolate mole rub.

My small group joined Edison and fellow chef Tory for a rub-making class of our own this morning. The two had prepped an area for us outside in the courtyard, with dozens of jars full of fresh spices, salts, sugars and other ingredients. Before begining, we took sample smells and tastes of some exotic ingredients, such as habanero powder and smoked salt, and began to get a feel for what we would like in a rub. Then the chefs worked individually with each of us to create a recipe that would accompany our favorite meats.

I'm a steak guy, and I love full, spicey flavors, so I chose to go for a strong rub that would accompany red meat with a sensation that is both sweet and hot. The chefs helped me to pick out the best ingredients, grind them and then mix them into a rub. Some of my classmates created rubs for fish, pork and chicken.

In the end, the chefs encouraged each of us to choose a name for our new rub; I decided on the Mexican-inspired "Carne Diablo." We packaged our new createions up in containers to take home. I can't wait to slather my diablo rub all over a steak and throw it on the grill.

The recipe for Carne Diablo rub is roughly this:

  • 1 tablespoon of salt, ground fine
  • 2 smoked chili pods (black cardemon)
  • 2 tablespoons of brown sugar
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons of  ground black peppercorn
  • 2 tablespoons of paprika
  • 1 tablespoon of ground cloves
  • 1 tablespoon of oregano
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons of cayenne pepper

This recipe should produce enough rub to liberally coat 6-8 steaks.

 

Chef Edison Mays

Chef Tory helping out

Creating an original rub

Brian's "Carne Diablo" steak rub

Hairfarmers and seafood paella

by Brian Jewell 5. August 2010 21:45

The Hairfarmers can play more than 3,500 songs... and know the vast majority of them by heart.

This two-man duo is the best known musical act in Whistler, B.C., a ski resort town about an hour and a half north of Vancouver. With a couple of microphones, some conga drums, a tambourine and a guitar, these guys take requests for hours at a time, and have a sense of humor that keeps audiences in rapt attention.

Whistler is all about outdoor activity. In the winter, it's a mecca for skiers and snowboarders, who come to traverse the two large, powdery mountains on either side of the resort village. Summertime brings hiking, mountain biking, river rafting and the panoramic views afforded by the many chairlifts and gondolas in the area.

In either season, you'll find the Hairfarmers performing somewhere in town most any night of the week. These guys don't put out the professional musician vibe, but they're remarkably busy, playing some 320 shows a year.

Every Thursday night during the summer, those shows take place in the courtyard of The Four Seasons hotel, one of the many upscale properties in the area. From a floating stage in the middle of the coutyard's pond, these two croon and joke throughout the evening, as visitors dine al fresco on a special barbecue dinner prepared by the restaurant staff.  But it isn't just any barbecue -- this smorgasboard, cooked in plain view of the dinner tables, includes seafood pallea, beef short ribs, smoked rice, lamb shanks, grilled salmon and other fine foods.

Tonight, my first in Whistler, was ideal. I made two trips through the barbecue line, piling my plate high with meats, salads and sides, and enjoyed the clean, fresh mountain air and the mild temperatures. It's around 75 degrees in the middle of August, with crystal clear skies. And between covers of Neil Young, Bob Dylon, the Jackson Five and others, the Hairfarmers threw me a bone and played one of my favorie U2 songs.

I think I'm going to like this town.

 

 

Microbrews come to Palestine

by Mac Lacy 24. June 2010 08:34

Dr. Maria C. Khoury and her husband have managed to build the only microbrewery in the Middle East.  The Taybeh Brewery was established in 1994 when she, of Greek descent, and he, a Palestinian native, returned to his homeland to live.  After managing to get necessary permits, they began brewing Taybeh Beer.  It is now served in Palestine in predominantly Christian areas as the areas that are Muslim do not serve alchohol. 

We attended a reception and dinner in Bethlehem where Taybeh was the only beer served.  Numerous hosts encouraged me to have one and were obviously proud to have a Palestinian beer to offer guests.  As the only microbrewery in the Middle East, this beer is one of a kind in 26 countries.  It is already being exported to Japan, Chile and parts of Asia.  They hope to export it to America in the future.

Dr. Khoury is also the proud organizer of the Taybeh Oktoberfest, to take place October 2-3 in Taybeh-Ramallah, Palestine.  For more information on the brewery, go to www.taybehbeer.com

I made a purchase while I was in the brewery--two shirts for my sons.  They will be the only guys in Lexington with those shirts on and maybe one day they'll be able to order a Taybeh Golden!



Brewery in Taybeh



Taybeh Beer

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Traveling Through Palestine

Don't miss this family institution when you visit Bethlehem

by Mac Lacy 23. June 2010 07:46



Elias Salameh Afteem is carrying on a very proud family tradition at Restaurant Afteem in Bethlehem.  He greets you in a bustling lunchtime crowd just off the market in this iconic pilgrimage city in Palestine.  I noticed him immediately when our group came in the door.  For all I knew he was just a server, but his eyes were friendly and full of life. As I soon learned, he is a young, engaging businessperson who loves to tell the story of his family's success here. 

"My grandfather came here in 1948 when the war started.  He thought he would be here ten days.  Ten days.  Now it's been 60 years.  We still have the key to our house in Jaffa Tel Aviv.  He always expected to return. 

"He knew Palestinian food and he opened a restaurant here in Bethlehem.  My father worked here and now I work here.  Today, we own this building.  We restored it ourselves in one month.  We moved here in 2000 and rented for three years and then bought it.  There are 65 family members who work here in all."

Lots of pita bread and dishes appeared as we sat down, as did pitchers of a beverage popular here that is basically made with fresh squeezed lemons and crushed mint.  I couldn't get enough of it on this very hot day in Bethlehem.

"Our food is for rich people and poor people.  Do you know Sarkozy, the French president?  He was here.  The princess of
Quatar ate here.  We serve falafel, hummus, masabacha, fava beans, fatteh.  The same food at dinner as we have here at lunch."

His eyes brighten as he tells me they were selected for an entry as "our choice" by the guidebook Lonely Planet. " Do you know Lonely Planet?" he asks.  I assure him I do.

I came back in as our group was leaving to get a shot of Elias.  He was sitting with an elderly gentleman just inside the door.  As I approached he rose and said, "this is my father!"  The older man smiled and shook my hand.  The pleasure of meeting this family was all mine.

 



A lamp against the window in Church of the Nativity



Food vendor in Bethlehem Market



Vendor's goods in Bethlehem Market



Our guide makes a point to our group in Hebron at the Ibrahimi Mosque at the Tomb of the Patriarchs

 

Elias Salameh Afteem with his father at Restaurant Afteem in Bethlehem

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Traveling Through Palestine

Hallowed Ground

by Brian Jewell 21. May 2010 20:28

 

On a Friday morning, the air around Manassas is soft and quiet. Dew drops shimmer on the green rolling hills outside of town, and all is peaceful. But it was not always so.

In July of 1861, young and inexperienced troops from the Union and Confederate armies met for the first time on the fields outside of Manassas, and engaged in a fierce battle that would shatter their illusions about the glory of war. In this, one of the early battles of the Civil War, and the first one so close to Washington and Richmond (the confederate capitol), army recruits from both sides found themselves in the middle of a baptism by fire.

Today I visited Manassas National Battlefield Park, which preserves the ground where the first and second battles of Bull Run were fought. Also known as the Battles of Bull Run, both of these encounters were victories for the South, as they beat back Union forces and sent them retreating toward Washington. For modern travelers, a visit to the park gives a remarkable perspective of what the fight meant for our country's young men, most of whom were taking their first steps into warfare.

The ground of the battlefield is scenic and peaceful, but throughout the park, a number of monuments, markers and other objects tell the story of the fighting that took place there. Visitors can see a number of cannons from the battle that have been set up on top of the hill overlooking the park. There is a large monument set up to honor the Union troops who died here, as well as a statue honoring Thomas "Stonewall" Jackson, who earned his nickname during the first battle here.

For me, the most moving part of the visit was the film shown at the visitor's center, which brings the conflict into human terms by telling the stories of individual soldiers, officers and civilians from both sides. Many of the young men in both armies expected the fighting to be quick, painless and relatively easy. Most thought that the conflict would end after just one battle. After a few hours of fighting, all of the surviving soldiers walked away with their lives forever changed.

 

Artillery cannon in the distance at Manassas Battlefield.


A monument to Thomas "Stonewall" Jackson.

 

A monument erected by Union veterans to honor their dead at Manassas Battlefield.

Semper Fi

by Brian Jewell 21. May 2010 06:44

The National Museum of the Marine Corps is one of those places that gives you chills.

Located in Quantico near a major Marine base, this museum opened in 2006 and has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Virginia, drawing some 500,000 visitors annually. Walking through the place today, I understood why -- this museum goes to extraoridanry lenghts to help people understand the training, commitment and creed that make the Marines our country's most lauded fighting force.

A visit to the museum is moving from the very beginning. From the outside, the large atrium of the museum is capped with a steeple-like extension, set at an angle to recall the famous photo of Marines raising the flag at Iwo Jima. In the orientation theater, active and retired Marines (including two U.S. senators) talk about the uncommon valor shown by the men in the corps, and the special pride that comes with serving the most difficult places among bretheren who are semper fidelis -- always faithful.

From there, the museum's galleries describe the recruitment and training process of young marines, then go on to detail the Corps' history, from its creation in 1775 to its current role in Afghanistan and Iraq. Along the way, extensive dioramas feature life-sized manequins that were cast from the faces and bodies of actual men serving in the Marine Corps today. Visitors walk through some of the dioramas for an immerseve experience, and many of the displays use extensive lighting, sound and environmental effects to give guests the feeling of walking through the battleground.

The museum also features an impressive collection of artifacts, from World War I training aircraft to a rare Vietnamese artillery guns. All together, there are dozens of full-sized aircraft, tanks and armored vehicles on display, along with hundreds of guns from the many different military periods.

Military history buffs and collectors will be tempted to spend hours in this museum. For me, though, the most poignant part of the places was the human stories that it tells. There were many men in uniform, as well as retired Marine veterans, visiting the museum alongside me today, and they all share in the amazing heritage of bravery and fidelity that have made the Marines famous around the world. Even after decades out of uniform, these men remain deeply connected to the Corps, and this museum is a faithful retelling of their collective experiences.

 

 

 

Great ideas in the District of Columbia

by Brian Jewell 20. May 2010 07:41

I've always thought that the National Parks Service was one of the greatest ideas to come out of America (you know, besides "All men are created equal," "I have a dream," "Tear down this wall," and all of the other inspirational stuff). But during my daylong visit to the National Mall in Washington, I decided that the Smithsonian Institution ranks right up there with the best cultural achievements of our country.

I'll be spending the next few days exporing Manassas and the Prince William County area of Northern Virginia. Today, though, I rode the train into Washington for a quick look at the Smithsonian and other attractions around the National Mall. Though I visited some of these places as a middle-school student years ago, returning as an adult gave me a new appreciation for just how great these museums are, and what a point of pride they should be for all Americans.

I began with a visit to the Smithsonian's National Museum of American History. This museum holds millions of items from our past, ranging from antique arms and armor to steam locomotives, famous musical instruments, and a host of things in between. One of the most famous is the large American flag that inspired Frances Scott Key to write "The Star Spangled Banner" during the war of 1812. I was captivated by a wing with various exhibitions on America's presidents, which included artifacts from the White House, video interviews wiith former presidents, a gallery of first ladies' ball gowns and a special section on Abraham Lincoln, complete with one of his famous top hats.

Next, I took a stroll down the mall to the National Museum of the American Indian, the newest of the Smithsonian museums in Washington. This institution does an amazing job of telling the stories of America's diverse native peoles, from the northeastern woodlands to the desert Southwest and the icey fjords of Alaska. The artifacts and informational panels were chosen by the individual tribes and groups they represent, and the exhibits give a fascinating job of describing the past and present triumphs and struggles of indigenous people in America.

In addition to the museums, I also took time to enjoy the National Mall, spread out between the Washington Monument and the U.S. Capitol.  On the grounds of the capitol complex, I happened upon the National Botanic Garden, an attraction that I wasn't aware of. A quick trip inside revealed hundreds of plants from all parts of the world, inside a conservatory that proved a welcome relief from the bustling Mall and capitol just outside.

You could spend a week in D.C. without running out of things to do. But even a daylong trip was enough to remind me of just a few of the things I love about this country.

 

Julia Child's kitchen on display in at the National museum of American History.

 

An original Kermit the Frog puppet, on display in the pop culture gallery at the National Museum of American History.

 

Abraham Lincoln's top hat.

 

This colorful mask on display at the National Museum of the American Indian was used in tribal ceremonies in the Southwest.

 

One of many exotic plants cultivated at the National Botanic Garden.

 

Another rare flower fromthe National Botanic Garden.

Art comes alive in St. Charles

by Brian Jewell 7. May 2010 06:57

Artwork takes on a whole new hue when you get to talk to the people who are creating it.

Today I visited St. Charles, a town in eastern Missouri known for it historic 1800s downtown and its association with Lewis and Clark's expedition. There's plenty of charm on the brick-lined streets, and many historic sites to visit. But the one that interested me the most was the Foundry Arts Centre.

Created as a railroad car manufacturing facility in the 1940s, the foundry later closed and sat dormant for years. In the 1990s and early 2000s, a community effort helped to turn the facility into an arts center with gallery space for artwork exhibition and studio space where local artists can work.

Today the Foundry Arts Centre is the cultural headquarters of St. Charles, hosting concerts, art shows, lectures luncheons and other events. The permanent galleries on the bottom floor host a series of changing exhibitions of work by local and regional artists. In the upstairs section, some 25 working artists have studios, where they can be found creating paintings, sculptures, fabric art, pottery and other art forms.

My favorite part of the visit was walking through the studios and meeting the artists who work there.  Two of them are retired art teachers who are pursuing their life passions now after decades in education. They explained the inspiration behind their work, and shared some of the processes and techniques they use to create painting and pottery that they love and that appeal to art buyers.

Meeting these guys helped me to put a human face on the artwork, and allowed to see the items in front of me through the perspective of their experience, creativity and passions. If you're only a casual art liker, a visit to the foundry just might turn you in to a bona fide art lover.